How to choose knitted interlining

 

Today, the garment interlining has developed from the first generation of cotton, hemp, brown and other fabric linings, the second generation of black carbon lining (wool lining, horse tail lining), the third generation of resin lining to the fourth generation (spinning and non-woven) hot melt adhesive interlining widely used in the field of modern clothing industry, and the high-grade interlining with high flexible count, ultra-thin, environmental protection, health care, washable and breathable high-grade interlining is the fifth generation new type Adhesive interlining also came into being.

 

Knitted interlining is a kind of adhesive interlining with knitted fabric as base cloth and processed by hot melt adhesive coating. The knitted lining is divided into warp knitted lining and weft knitted lining, and the warp knitted lining is mainly composed of weft lining. Its performance is similar to that of woven lining, which has good following performance and good drapability.

 

Knitted interlining is a kind of fusible interlining, which is an important part of the 4th generation interlining (non-woven and spun interlining) and the 5th generation interlining (improved fusible interlining). Due to the characteristics of knitted fabrics, knitted interlining has become a special interlining for knitted fabrics, which is different from ordinary fusible interlinings. It is mainly used in the front, collar, placket, cuffs, hem and pocket opening of knitted outerwear, as well as the waist, vent (zipper fixed part) and foot opening (HEM) of trousers skirt to do local bonding, so as to play the role of reinforcement, shape retention and modeling.

 

Types of knitted lining

 

The "replacing seam with adhesion" of fusible interlining simplifies the modern garment processing technology and improves the efficiency of industrial production unprecedentedly. As a kind of fusible interlining, knitted lining not only gives good shape to clothing, but also makes clothing tend to be light, thin, soft, firm, elastic and comfortable. It also endows clothing with gorgeous aesthetic characteristics, which appropriately reflects people's individual requirements for modern clothing style.

 

Knitted lining can be divided into different types according to different classification methods. It can be divided into warp knitted lining, weft knitted lining and non-woven stitched lining according to the forming mode of knitted lining. According to the properties of knitted lining base cloth, it can be divided into high elastic lining, low elastic lining, four direction elastic lining and high count and high mesh lining. According to the using parts of knitted lining, it can be divided into body lining, collar lining, placket lining, hem lining, sleeve lining, pocket lining, waistband lining, slit lining, and so on.

 

Selection of knitted lining

 

There are many differences between knitted garments, especially knitted outerwear and woven fabrics. The biggest characteristic of knitted fabrics used in knitted outerwear is multi-directional elongation. No matter it is natural fiber fabric, chemical fiber fabric or other interwoven fabrics, the elasticity of knitted fabric is very obvious because it is made of coils in series. Therefore, it is the first choice to select and use the fusible interlining which is similar or the same with the knitted fabric.

 

However, the selection of interlining fabric with the same stretch and contraction characteristics as knitted fabric should not only consider the straightness and straightness of knitted fabric after bonding, but also require the use of knitted lining with relatively stable organization different from the expansion and contraction of knitted fabric, so as to control the activity of the fabric. For example, the collar and cuffs of knitted loose suits are better when woven or nonwoven fusible interlinings are not easy to stretch. According to the design purpose of knitted clothing and the characteristics of clothing fabrics, it is a key to select different knitted linings. If the fusible interlinings are different, the activity properties of knitted fabrics after bonding are different. These changes should be carefully considered in the selection of lining and careful selection should be made. Therefore, it is necessary to select the appropriate (correct) interlining with a clear understanding of the characteristics of knitted fabrics and knitted outerwear.

 

The knitted lining, corresponding to the characteristics of knitted fabric and knitted clothing, should have the performance and quality that meets the needs of knitted clothing, so as to have a wide range of application adaptability. Its inherent quality requirements are as follows: follow up (expansion) and elasticity, high firmness, anti separation, curling, air permeability, hygroscopicity, soft handle, not easy to peel off, good sewability, and not easy to deform after washing. In addition, it should have antistatic, antibacterial, low formaldehyde, health care and other properties.

 

The selection of fusible interlining must pay attention to: must obtain the full adhesion; does not have the back hot melt glue leakage; sets the accurate adhesion condition; the interlining cloth and the fabric must match.

 

When using the fusible interlining, it is necessary to do the following strict tests with the bonding (pressing) machine, including: peeling strength; whether there is adhesive leakage; whether the handle is good or not; the fabric shrinkage; the appearance quality change of the fabric (foaming, yellowing, etc.); the resistance to dry cleaning and washing.

 

According to these items, the bonding tests are carried out on various fabrics, the correct selection of fusible interlining, and the bonding and ironing conditions that meet the bonding requirements are determined, so as to achieve the best matching requirements with the fabrics.

 

Selection considerations

 

The technological process of each kind of clothing is not the same, even if the same clothing products are processed, the processing technology of each garment processing enterprise is also different. Therefore, there will be differences in the bonding equipment and its performance used by various enterprises in processing knitted lining.

 

Before preselecting fusible interlining, four conditions (fabric shrinkage, pressing temperature, time and pressure) of the garment to be processed must be confirmed, and then the fusible interlining can be preselected and the bonding conditions can be set. The correctness of the selection can be demonstrated by testing. The main test and demonstration are as follows: confirm the fabric and fiber structure that meet the requirements of clothing design, set the bonding temperature suitable for the fabric (for example, 160 ℃ for natural fiber and 140 ℃ for synthetic fiber); set the pressure according to the fabric organization (for example, 0.3kg/cm2 for woven fabric)